Palmitoyl-oligopeptide is a short chain of amino acids with a fatty acid (palmitic acid) attached. The fatty acid helps it slip into the skin more easily. Once inside, it signals fibroblasts (skin cells that make collagen) to produce more collagen. The fatty acid part helps the peptide cross the skin barrier and enter cells. The peptide part can then bind to receptors on the cell surface (possibly ones linked to TGF-β, a growth signal) or act on signaling pathways inside the cell. Both routes turn up the genes for type I and III collagen. Attaching a fatty acid is a lab technique that copies fat-modified peptides found in nature, and it makes the peptide reach the skin better than its water-loving parent version. These signal peptides switch on proteins in fibroblasts that control genes (transcription factors, including pathways that depend on NF-κB). That raises production of the skin's support structure (the extracellular matrix), including hyaluronic acid (a molecule that holds water). The result is better hydration and denser skin.